KOL, London

KOL had been on my list for a long time, in part because I simply love Mexican food, but also because I was curious to see how Santiago Lastra’s British-produce approach to Mexican cooking would actually translate on the plate. No avocados or mangos?! How can it be…

On paper, it is a fascinating idea: Mexican techniques, flavours and structure, built entirely around ingredients from the UK. It is the kind of concept that could either feel incredibly exciting or slightly too clever for its own good.

So I arrived intrigued, but probably with fairly high expectations.

The details

KOL sits on Seymour Street in Marylebone and holds one Michelin star. The restaurant is led by chef patron Santiago Lastra, and it’s currently (Jun 2026) the only Mexican restaurant in the UK to hold a Michelin star.

The tasting menu is priced at £145 for seven courses, with a few additional bites along the way and optional supplements, including the wagyu huarache. There are alcoholic and non-alcoholic pairings available, and the restaurant also has a dedicated mezcaleria downstairs. The interiors are gorgeous: a huge open kitchen in the centre of the room, surrounded by lots of natural textures, earthy colours, and beautiful handmade wooden salt pots that I immediately fell in love with.

To start

We began with margaritas, one mezcal and one tequila, both of which were excellent. Clear, fresh, sharp and beautifully balanced, with KOL written into the ice cubes. A small detail, but exactly the kind of detail I enjoy. If every single margarita I drank from this day forward tasted like that one, I would be very happy indeed.

The first savoury courses set the tone quickly. There was an opening soup, followed by a caviar flauta: a tortilla shell filled with razor clam and caviar. The shell was crisp and delicate, with heat, richness and a slight creaminess running through it.

Shellfish

The scallop ceviche was one of the early standouts. It had incredible freshness, with green, earthy flavours and what I think was lovage coming through quite clearly. The pairing with blanc de blancs Champagne was unexpected, but brilliant. It lifted the dish beautifully and gave the whole thing even more clarity.

The crisp element on top did explode slightly when eating, which was fun, if a little impractical. I think it could have been a touch thinner, but the flavour was sensational. Already you can notice the signature balance of the dishes, with spice, earthiness, acidity, crunch and softness all working together harmoniously.

The langoustine taco was another highlight, and one that’s really stayed in my mind since. A soft, fresh taco, served with beautifully delicate langoustine meat, and the langoustine head served alongside for seasoning. Squeezing the head over the top added incredible savoury depth, with sea buckthorn bringing acidity, and I loved how interactive it was.

The non-alcoholic pairings were also very strong. The apple margarita was fresh, with more of that green, celery-like note coming through, while the non-alcoholic Paloma with Alexander seed salt was bright and refreshing.

The Huarache & Tamal

The wagyu huarache (a supplement) was soft and melting, but the scotch bonnet pickled radishes were what made the dish. They were sharp, hot, fresh and completely inspired. I immediately wanted to go home and make a version of them.

The asparagus tamal was another dish unlike anything I have had before. The tamal itself had that soft, steamed, polenta-like texture, with perfectly cooked asparagus and crispy fried crickets bringing heat and texture. Again, it was earthy, spicy and fresh, with a sparkling rosé pairing that worked far better than I would have expected.

Duck & Tacos

The duck was excellent, but the mole was the real point of interest. A traditional mole can contain 30–50 ingredients, so the fact KOL managed to create that level of depth with just three British-grown ingredients (the main one being fermented barley, I believe) was seriously impressive. It had sweetness, earthiness, smoke and real savoury complexity. Served with perfectly cooked duck, a beautiful jus, and a freshly cooked tortilla still warm from the oven, it was one of the clearest examples of how clever the cooking at KOL can be.

This was one of the best pairings of the meal too: a Cabernet Franc aged in stainless steel, earthy and slightly smoky. I immediately went to source myself a bottle for home but quickly discovered it was a limited edition. Too bad.

We were also served an extra beef taco, which may honestly have been the best taco I have ever eaten. The beef flavour was incredibly intense, with that deep beef fat, bone marrow-like richness. Small, but ridiculous.

Sweet courses

The transition into the sweet courses began with a butternut squash lolly, which sounds unusual because it is. Somehow, it also tasted distinctly of mango, which made it far more refreshing than I expected.

The main dessert was an “impossible cake”, where the cake and flan layers switch places in the oven. It tasted a little like a Mexican Eton mess: fresh, creamy, tart and sweet, with strawberry running through it. The Jurançon dessert wine pairing worked beautifully here too, clean and fresh, with enough acidity to balance the sweetness.

The cheese course was a blue cheese ice cream with sea buckthorn gel and a flat churro, described as their version of cheese and crackers. Salty, sharp, creamy, sweet, crisp. Completely unexpected and completely brilliant.

Petit fours included a parsnip bite, carrot and sea buckthorn pâte de fruit, and a fudge that tasted like popcorn. A very strong finish.

Drinks pairings

The drinks were a real highlight across the whole meal. The blanc de blancs with the scallop ceviche, the sparkling rosé with the asparagus tamal, the Cabernet Franc with the duck, and the Jurançon with the strawberry dessert were all excellent.

Our sommelier also gave us a great explanation of mezcal and tequila, what defines each one, and why mezcal often has that distinctive smokiness. I had no idea that it comes from the way the agave is cooked over hot coals before distillation. Fascinating!

The non-alcoholic pairings also felt properly considered and worked beautifully with the dishes. I always appreciate when they are treated with the same care as the wine pairing.

Service

Service was warm, friendly and very well judged. The explanations were clear and interesting, with enough detail to understand the thinking behind each dish, but never so much that it felt like a lecture.

We also met Santiago himself, who was lovely. He explained the ethos of the restaurant and the British-produce approach in a way that made the whole experience feel even more impressive.

Final Verdict

At £145 for the tasting menu, KOL is still a special occasion restaurant, but I actually think it represents very good value for this level of cooking. The menu is generous, the drinks pairings were excellent, the service was warm and precise, and the food felt genuinely distinctive from start to finish. It is one of the best one-star meals I have had in London for a while: exciting, technically impressive and, above all, properly delicious.

*I visited KOL as a guest of the restaurant. Everything here reflects my own views. (PR Invite)